The forest of Magic Wood overs an endless amount of outstanding boulder problems and therefore Paul and I had a lot of boulders on our ‚todo list‘.
Whereas Paul was psyched for super hard bouldering, I was more relaxed this trip. There are times when I love to perform at my very limit and there are times when I just enjoy climbing … and this time my focus was on joy 🙂
One of the boulder problems that we had to leave unclimbed was ‚Blown away‘ (7b) – a super high highball. The last time we had four crashpads but were too afraid of climbing it. This time we had only two small pads, but we were super motivated to climb it. We checked it out with a rope and then just climbed it without mercy. As long as you do not plan to fall down, this is a quite cool boulder problem …
Stairway to heaven
Paul discovered his love for scary highballs. So he did not only choose an even higher boulder, but also a super hard one for his current project – ‚Stairway to heaven‘ (8a). After the crux which consists of a fancy overhead hook, you have to top out a steep slab without any chance to hit the landing. So failing there is no option … Luckily Paul had strong nerves and also stuck the slab ending after crushing the powerful start sequence. Probs for the ascent of this cool boulder …
I rediscovered ‚Kalorienmonster‘ (7c) hidden at the ending of Magic Wood. It’s a long sloper rail and if you see it once you just want to climb this boulder problem. Even though there are no special tricks, it turned out to be very powerful to keep the tension all the way at the edge of the sloper rail … It was a little fight to get it, but this is a super cool boulder and a lot of fun to try – a clear recommendation in Magic Wood.
After five days, it was time to leave Magic Wood again. I love this place and all these nice boulders. I am already looking forward to returning next year …