Action Directe

This week we had perfect weather in southern Germany and so I decided to take a short break from learning for my exams: together with Nina and Julian, we went to the Luger-Geiersteine in the palatinate. They provide plenty of cool routes in all grades (, but maybe more important was that they have a...


Juli sticking the wide dynamic move in the lower part of „Action Directe“.

This week we had perfect weather in southern Germany and so I decided to take a short break from learning for my exams: together with Nina and Julian, we went to the Luger-Geiersteine in the palatinate. They provide plenty of cool routes in all grades (, but maybe more important was that they have a warm south side and were not closed like most of the other cool palatinate rocks at the moment 🙂 ). Anyway, there are a few routes at the Luger-Geiersteine I wanted to tick off my top secret wish list and one of them was „Action Directe“ (7c). It’s a must-have route in the palatinate (maybe more, because it has a famous name, then of the climbing itself). „Action Directe“ starts with a wide dynamic move, followed by a short slab, a crux with small crimps and small footholds and last but not least a tricky mantle to the top.


Warm sun and cool rock – Nina enjoying the nice climbing in the south wall.

After over three months bouldering I’m still not used to lead climbing and at the beginning, I had some problems with bad bolt placements of the palatinate routes. So the challenge was more to handle my mind than the climbing itself. But after falling a few times down the wall, it got better and better. In the end, I was happy sending it in the first go after checking out all the moves before. Juli seemed to have stronger nerves than me or at least he didn’t show his fear if he had any. But in the end, he struggled with the small and slippery crimps in the crux (17° are maybe not the best temperature for this route). Nina found her personal challenge in a long 6c in the middle of the wall. Sadly, we had to return very early to Karlsruhe this day, but we definitely enjoyed the amazing day outside in the warm sun.


Crimp it – „Action Directe“ has some really small holds.

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