Beauty & the Beast

The actual plan for this day was to climb two of our projects in the Palatinate – both 8a+. First Markus and I drove to the project of Markus: Reeperbahn at the Rappenfels. I’m not sure what went wrong this day, but we didn’t felt well in this route. Maybe it was two warm, some...


Me doing a mantle topout at the Luger-Geiersteine.

The actual plan for this day was to climb two of our projects in the Palatinate – both 8a+. First Markus and I drove to the project of Markus: Reeperbahn at the Rappenfels. I’m not sure what went wrong this day, but we didn’t felt well in this route. Maybe it was two warm, some holds were broken, we didn’t find a nice beta, maybe the bad bolts – or this route is just very ugly. I didn’t like it and was a little bit stressed.

So we drove to the Luger-Geiersteine. I was there a few times in the last months and still had to climb the Problembär. This route starts with a badly bolted slap, a super powerful move to a small crimp, small dyno, far move with a dyno and then another crux with some slopers. A very homogenous route and hard until the end, but very nice to climb. I was very happy that I could send it on the second Go this day. Markus struggled a little bit with the powerful move at the beginning but could climb the rest very easily. In the end, it was one hard move too much for him. But I am pretty sure he will do it on his next try.


Markus still smiling after a semi-successful day (maybe because he climbed his long-term project, Mekka, a week ago 🙂 ).

So, in the end, we failed to climb both routes in one single day – but that’s okay. The Problembär was fun to climb and that’s the only thing that matters at the end of a day.

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