Actually, our recent team trip with our DAV rock climbing team ‚Felskader BW‘ should take place in Magic Wood in Switzerland. But the weather forecast for this weekend was pretty bad. So we decided to relocate our trip to the Frankenjura. The weather forecast there was not much better and my expectations were low – but it got an amazing weekend exploring some hidden spots in the Frankejura.
There are hundreds of good boulders in the Frankenjura, but their location is kept very secretly. You have to know some guys from Franken to get some rare information about these secret boulder spots – and luckily some of our team are from there. Our prefered boulder spot for Saturday was placed near a small village in the North of Bayreuth. So far so good. The bad thing was that there was exactly one weekend with a big car race on the dirt roads of the Frankejura – it was this weekend and our boulder spot was inside the racing track. We ignored the first street barrier on our way and stopped before three other barriers. We discussed crossing them all – overlooking one was plausible, but we were not sure how to explain missing four street blockades. When a police officer came down the street, we decided against illegal street blockade crossings.
The bad thing was that we were not allowed to pass the racing track. The good thing was that the police officer helped us to find another way into this area and so we got a police escort to our boulder spot 🙂 . This more or less saved our day. After walking a few kilometres through the forest, we arrived at a small cave – our boulder spot for this day with some boulders between 7c and 8b.
The night we spent in a big natural cave at the other end of the Frankejura. It was pretty stormy outside and it rained a lot during the night. But the next day was much colder than the days before and the rock was surprisingly dry. Our Sunday we spent on some easier boulders around 7b (okay we tried some harder stuff, but it didn’t work well). They were pretty cool problems: some highballs with some dynos and monos. It was a lot of fun to try it together. In the end, my expectations were surpassed and it was a really nice weekend. So if you know some of the secret spots, Frankenjura is not only cool for sports climbing, but also for bouldering.
