The Frankenjura – one of the most famous and historical climbing areas of the world. Last week it was time for the first trip to the Frankenjura since nearly one year.
We travelled with Sven’s camper, which is his pride and joy. The camper is a really huge vehicle, it’s really old with his 41 years and it is pretty slow with a maximum speed around 80 km/h. It has no seat belts in the back part and it’s just made out of a 3 cm plastic cover and wood. You see 40 tonnes trucks pass you on the highway and you can be certain that your chances in a car crash will be nearly zero. Normally you can reach the Frankenjura in less than three yours – we needed about six hours. Maybe not the most efficient way to travel, but the ride itself was an adventure and one time there we had a super cool camper to sleep and travel around in the Frankenjura.
We had no exact spot or projects in the Frankenjura to go, but we wanted to be as far away as possible from the Marmot climbing festival because we were afraid of those masses of other climbers. After discussing the whole ride about our destination, we agreed on going to the „Schlaraffenland“ near Königstein for the first days – a climbing sector with a lot of good routes in all grades. The only thing we missed, was that the climbing festival was not around Bayreuth (what we thought first), but in Königstein : ( . The good thing despite the masses of climbers was, that we met a lot of old friends like Conny, Simon, Lukas got to know a lot of new cool people and heard some talks of inspiring climbers like Ines Papert, Katha Saurwein and Joerg Verhoeven.
Most of the days, we climbed in the southern Frankenjura – „Schlaraffenland“, „Grundfels“ and „Leupoldsteiner Wand“. At the Grundfels we met a typical Franconian guy: I tried together with Lukas a chipped route around 7b+ with a far distance to the second bolt. It was chipped, but the route was fun to climb so I spent a Go in the end of the day. Lukas wanted to do it after me and got ready for his ascent. Suddenly an old Franconian with crutches shouted around the corner:
„Guy, you will come down immediately!“
It was his project and he didn’t want us to climb this route. It was a really strange situation with this tight-lipped super angry Franconian. We would never climb a project of someone else, but the route was not marked with a sling or marked somehow else and we thought it was in the guidebook as an official route. So my sympathy for this guy was rare. (Later on, we found out, that a lot of other people climbed this route too … ). But Lukas and Markus did a good job, excusing this misunderstanding and talking to this guy. In the end, he was pretty friendly and talked much about climbing in the Frankenjura and the Palatinate. A typical Franconian, first rude and but friendly after some time … this was a really strange situation.
After four days we travelled back to Karlsruhe – it took us again five hours, but we were super happy that we made it without a car crash or a breakdown of the camper. It was a nice trip with Sven and Markus and I really enjoyed the time in the Frankenjura. I will come back for sure to finish the projects we tried …