The north side of the Donautal. On the right side, there are the „Drei Zinnen“ sectors.
Last Saturday our climbing team Felskader BW went to the Donautal together with Stefan Weber from EO Films. There was still snow on top of the hills and our favourite sector was wet, so we decided to go to the ‚Drei Zinnen‘. After warming up Ole and I decided to check out ‚Freiflug‘ (8a+) – an impressive 40m line on a smooth rock pillar. I saw this line the first time in the „Albtraum“ video of Jörg Zeidelhack and directly fell in love with it. The first 30m are not that hard and maybe 7a and then the actual crux comes with a far cross move on finger pockets followed by another tricky crux on a slab. Your browser does not support HTML5 video. Marcel Dippon climbing „Freiflug“ (8a+) filmed by Jörg Zeidelhack – I fell in love with this line at first view.
Ole checked it out first and directly did it in his second Go. I struggled with the far cross move and my endurance (in the last weeks I was focused on 4m boulders). So I knew that I had maximum three Goes on such a long route before I would be too tired to climb it. After falling off in my second Go in the far and for this risky cross move, I checked out a smarter beta for me. In my third Go, I climbed the crux and then nearly slipped off in the following slap catching a wet pocket. But I stuck it and made it to the top. Jakob made an impressive onsight in „Das Wesen des Wassers“ (7c) climbing 45 minutes. I tried it later but was faced with my weaknesses – flat footholds, super small finger pockets and long distances between the bolts. I was happy to even reach the chain with resting on every bolt – respect to Jakob.
On the next day it was too cold on the north side of the valley, so we decided to climb on the „Stuhlfelsen“. We checked out the hard routes on the back side. Paul and I climbed „Stuhlgang“ (7c+) which is a super nice route and was the test piece until a few years ago. The whole weekend out team was accompanied by Stefan Weber – a super nice guy from EO Films. It was very interesting for us to get filmed by a professional filmmaker. I am looking forward to the small clip of this weekend …
