A few years ago, I had the big dream of climbing well enough to climb a route graded 8b. Bene, a friend from Karlsruhe, recommended a route in Frankejura which was called “Plan B”. It was intended to be my very first route in this grade. Now, a few years and after climbing a lot of other routes in this grade later, I finally was able to climb this cool route.
“Plan B” is located in an idyllic crag called “Zwergenschloss” in the Frankenjura. A short hike through a dried-up riverbed in the forest brings you to a remote spot with a circular limestone wall. The surrounding forest and the overhanging routes make it a nice place to climb even in the summer heat or on rainy days (even though it can be wet after a long period of rain). The routes are mostly quite athletic with a lot of Frankenjura-typical finger pockets. You should climb at least around 7c/8a to have fun there as the difficulties of the routes are vary between 6a and 8c+.
“Plan B” is a well-known 8b there and the opinions vary between “pretty soft” and “super hard”. I always was able to do the powerful moves in the upper part quite fast, but never could do it from the bottom. Falling in the upper part on always on the same move was quite frustrating. Alex Megos climbing it twice for the warm-up was not help at all for me. So tried it from time to time over the years… And then this time, I tried it with Lulu again after a long break in between – and just did it. I skipped the quickdraw in the upper part because I could not catch the extended sling and kept climbing motivated by the cheering climbers at the ground. Such a good climb … Thanks, Lulu for these two days in Frankenjura 🙂