The allure of Sardinia, a Mediterranean gem nestled between the azure waters of the Tyrrhenian and the Ionian Seas, has captivated travellers for centuries. Its pristine beaches, rugged mountains, and rich history offer a diverse tapestry of experiences. For those seeking an authentic and immersive travel experience, a van life adventure is the perfect way to explore this captivating island.
In this blog post, we’ll share our experiences of a road trip through Sardinia, highlighting the stunning coastal towns of Olbia and Cagliari, the serene beauty of Domusnovas, the rugged charm of Quirra, the historic allure of Ulassai, and the breathtaking natural wonders of Cala Gonone and the Millenium Cave.
Olbia: The Gateway to Sardinia
Our adventure began in Olbia, a bustling port city on the northeastern coast of Sardinia. In the early morning hours, our ferry from Genoa arrived in Olbia and started unloading the hundreds of vehicles it had transported.
It was my first time using a ferry, and I had never been on such a large ship. Unfortunately, our trip started with a major mishap: we lost track of our van on the vessel. The loading and unloading of the ferry had to be done quickly, as hundreds of vehicles needed to be coordinated by the crew. When we boarded in Genoa that evening, we focused on the wrong number to identify our vehicle’s location. During the unloading process, we realized our mistake and had no idea where our car was on the ship.
Eventually, we asked the crew for help, and after a short waiting period, a crew member asked us if we were driving a grey Mercedes van. I was surprised at how they located it on such a massive vessel. When we went to the lower decks, we were greeted by an unexpected sight: the large ship’s door was open, and in the middle of the first row, one solitary vehicle remained—our small Mercedes van—while a wall of trucks, their engines running, waited for the path to clear.
Although it was an awkward situation, we were relieved to have our van back. Even the stressed crew found humour in the situation, and they all cheered as we drove down from the ship.
After arriving in Olbia, we needed a little rest from the nerve-wracking ferry ride before heading south along the eastern coast of Sardinia—away from the big cities and the large ships.
Domusnovas: A Medieval Marvel
We finally reached Domusnovas, a charming hilltop town nestled in the rolling hills of southeastern Sardinia. While famous for its well-preserved medieval architecture, our focus was on the renowned climbing areas around the Grotta di San Giovanni nearby.
The Grotta di San Giovanni itself offers over 60 sport climbing routes ranging from 12 to 45 meters, with challenging, overhanging climbs at both cave entrances. A winding tunnel, illuminated and passable, runs through the grotto, showcasing large stalagmite formations. After exploring the cave, climbers can test their skills on the extremely overhanging routes at the entrance. Renowned climber Adam Ondra has even left his mark here with the demanding „Marina Superstar“ route, graded 9a+/9b.
Beyond the cave, the area boasts around 30 sport and multi-pitch sectors with hundreds of routes of all difficulties. We frequently visited the „Ruota del Tempo“ sector, known for classic challenges like „Master Mind“ (8a). As one of Sardinia’s oldest climbing areas, some routes may have a more traditional grading system and the rock might have lost some of its initial friction. However, the sheer number of routes and the unique setting of the Grotta di San Giovanni make it a special place for climbers.
Cagliari: The Vibrant Capital
We continued our journey to Cagliari, Sardinia’s vibrant capital city. Known for its historic centre, bustling markets, and beautiful beaches, Cagliari promises an exciting blend of culture, history, and coastal beauty.
Starting at the bustling port of Cagliari, we ventured into the heart of the city. Our first stop was the Castello district, a captivating maze of medieval streets lined with charming shops, historic buildings, and cosy cafes. From Castello, we explored the nearby Stampace district. This lively neighbourhood offers a more modern feel, with trendy boutiques, art galleries, and vibrant nightlife. We strolled through the streets, stopping to savour delicious Sardinian cuisine at local restaurants and indulging in gelato at the many gelaterias.
Quirra: A Natural Paradise
We left the city behind and headed to Quirra, a small climbing crag located further north. This single wall, composed of striking orange and grey limestone, offers modern sport climbing routes ranging from vertical to overhanging.
The remote setting of Quirra provides a tranquil climbing experience. While the number of routes is limited, with most topping out around 7c, the quality of the climbs is exceptional. The existing routes are well-maintained and offer a variety of challenges for climbers of all levels.
Ulassai: A Mountain Retreat
Our next stop was Ulassai, a picturesque mountain village nestled within the Gennargentu National Park. Surrounded by lush forests and towering peaks, Ulassai offered a welcome respite from the coastal heat. The stunning mountain scenery immediately made us forget we were on an island.
The small village of Ulassai provides a convenient campsite and a charming climbing hostel. The surrounding rock walls offer hundreds of climbing routes, mostly vertical and technical. Although we only spent two days here, Ulassai has so much to offer that you could easily spend weeks exploring the area. In fact, the abundance of climbing opportunities has led to a dedicated guidebook for the region. Unfortunately, we didn’t know this back then; otherwise, we would have spent more days here for sure.
Cala Gonone: A Coastal Gem
Our final destination was Cala Gonone, a coastal town renowned for its stunning beaches and crystal-clear waters. We spent our days exploring the diverse climbing areas around Cala Gonone and its breathtaking coastline. With so many exceptional spots, we couldn’t visit them all. However, our favourites include:
- Biddiriscottai: This crag is easily accessible from Cala Gonone and is located directly on the beach. It offers overhanging tufa lines in lower grades, with some routes directly above the sea. The scenic beauty of this location is truly captivating.
- Fuili: This canyon features multiple sectors with excellent sport climbing routes. The Pederiva sector is particularly recommended.
- Millenium Cave: This massive cave, situated above the sea, boasts outstanding tufa lines. The unique setting of this cave is truly awe-inspiring. However, caution is advised as the approach requires care, and the bolts within the cave are extremely rusted and may be unreliable.
We visited Cala Gonone during the off-season, enjoying a tranquil atmosphere. However, during the peak season, the town can become quite busy. Booking a campsite in advance is recommended to avoid any potential difficulties.
Cala Gonone was the perfect ending to our Sardinian adventure. Before returning to Olbia to catch our ferry, we reflected on the incredible experiences we had gained during our trip. This time, our ferry departure went smoothly!
Conclusion
Our Sardinia trip was an unforgettable experience. The island’s diverse landscapes, rich history, and warm hospitality left a lasting impression on us. From the bustling cities to the serene mountain villages and pristine beaches, Sardinia has it all. Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or cultural immersion, Sardinia is a destination that will not disappoint.
